By Bernard Pacyniak
If, as Louis
Pasteur claimed, that “Wine is the most healthful and most hygienic of
beverages,” what better way to double that elixir’s potency than by pairing it
with another antioxidant-rich gift from the gods, chocolate.
Although it might
be hard to find any doctors prescribing wine and chocolate pairings to relieve
any specific maladies, it’s certain that combining the two - once considered
tricky at best - can lift souls, and perhaps sales.
Although wine has
a long history of accompanying and highlighting food, much of that stemmed from
combining local wines with local foods. The practice and “art” of specifically
pairing wines to certain foods has evolved dramatically during the last 20 or
so years, intensifying and elevating the relationship between grapes and grub.
Most recently, the
practice of pairing chocolate with wine has gained popularity amongst connoisseurs
as well as common folk simply because the two offer indulgence in a most pleasing
and palatable manner.
At the behest of Candy Industry and Retail Confectioner, Jessica Trent, a certified
specialist of wine (CSW) for Chicago’s Field Museum,
was asked to pair several wines with an assortment of chocolates. Godiva’s chef
chocolatiers also added their comments about the pairings.
he chocolates and wines were generously supplied by Godiva Chocolatier and
Kendall-Jackson. Trent, who shares her love of
wine by teaching Wine 101 to people in sales as well as staff
from other Chicago special events venues - she’s the only CSW employed at a
Chicago non-profit special events department and only one of 10 at institutions
worldwide - advises fledgling connoisseurs to follow some simple rules when
doing a tasting.
Typically, when sampling wines, tasters
should start with the lightest and end with the heaviest, she urges.
Red wines
have tannins that coat the tongue and affect your taste buds, Trent adds. A good rule of thumb to remember: The heavier the food, the heavier the wine
should be.
First,
before anything else, after the wine is poured, tasters should give the glass a
swirl; this opens up the wine and gives it oxygen, Trent says.
“Second,
sniff it; what aromas can you detect?” she says.
And
now the third step, sip it, taking in air while doing so. Then swallow.
“Think
of it from the tip of your tongue to the back of your tongue,” Trent says. “Wine is like a book; it should
have a story – a beginning, middle and end.
“Wines
with a long finish are those you can taste long after you’ve swallowed,” she
continues. “Other wines have a big taste up front. It’s personal preference;
some people don’t want a wine that lingers, and some do.”
Godiva Chocolatier chocolates and Kendal-Jackson wines as paired by Jessica Trent, supplemented with comments from Kendall-Jackson’s Winemaster, Randy Ullom and Godiva’s chef chocolatiers:
Vintner’s Reserve, Summation, White Table Wine, California, 2009
“…Summation mingles refreshing flavors of honeydew
melon, apricot, pink grapefruit and white pepper. Added hints of honeysuckle
and a creamy mouth feel result in a soft, dry wine.” - Randy Ullom
With Godiva White Chocolate Vanilla Bean Tablet
Upon detecting peach and melon notes in the wine, Trent noted that “Because
the Summation is creamier, it brings out the vanilla in the chocolate.”
Vintner’s Reserve, Cabernet Sauvignon, Sonoma
63%, Napa 30%
and Mendocino counties 7%, 2007
“Opens with deep black cherry, blackberry and
cassis flavors. Intense, round and well-structured tannins provide a strong
backbone throughout the middle. Cedar and vanilla notes linger on the finish...”
- Randy Ullom
With Godiva Dark Chocolate 72% Cacao Tablet
In this wine, Trent
detected plenty of fruit, “particularly blackberries, blueberries …The darker
chocolate works best with this because the bitterness of the chocolate brings
out the sweetness of the wine. They really complement each other well. You get
the richness of the chocolate and it makes the wine taste sweeter. The
chocolate coats your taste buds so that when you drink the wine, you only get
the sweet.”
Vintner’s Reserve, Chardonnay, California,
2008
“This chardonnay bursts with tropical flavors such
as mango, papaya and pineapple with citrus notes that explode in your mouth.
These flavors delicately intertwine with aromas of green apple and pear to
create depth and balance throughout. A hint of toasted oak rounds out the long
lingering finish.” - Randy Ullom
“Has tastes of mature lemons with hints of
pineapple, oaky notes with a slightly toasted note. Nice buttery notes that
rounded off the flavor. Recommend Solid Milk Chocolate GEMS and Milk Truffle GEMS
as a pairing.” - Godiva’s chef chocolatiers
With Godiva Gems Milk Chocolate Solids
This chardonnay, which is aged in oak, delivers a
toasty, buttery flavor, Trent
says.
“I smell
really ripe pineapple, a little bit of buttered popcorn and a little bit of
vanilla in the wine,” she says, adding “it’s got a nice citrusy taste, kind of
creamy, too.
As far as chocolate, it’s very milky, Trent points out. They
pair nicely with the wine, actually making the GEMS taste richer.
“
With the GEM,
you pick up more of the wine’s acidity and more of the richness of the
chocolate; they bring out something in each other,” she adds.
Vintner’s Reserve, Pinot Noir, California, 2008
“Black cherry and raspberry fruit with velvety
tannins typically found in hillside grapes along the North
Coast mingle with flavors of plum and
spice from our benchland vineyards along the Central Coast.
Oak aging adds hints of vanilla, nuances of toast and a soft, smoky finish.” -
Randy Ullom
With Godiva Extra Creamy Milk Chocolate Hazelnut 41% Cacao Tablet
No hesitation on Trent’s part here regarding the wine, “I taste really red cherries … spicy on the
end, an earthy spice.”
As for the pairing, she likes “the salt of the
hazelnut in the chocolate,” which pairs well with the wine. “The sweetness of
the wine really brings more of the sharp hazelnut flavor out through the
chocolate; conversely, the saltiness of the hazelnut brings out the sweetness
of the cherry of the wine.”
Grand Reserve, Sonoma
County, 2007, Merlot
“Black cherry and raspberry fruit with velvety
tannins typically found in hillside grapes along the North
Coast mingle with flavors of plum and
spice from our benchland vineyards along the Central Coast.
Oak aging adds hints of vanilla, nuances of toast and a soft, smoky finish.” - Randy
Ullom
“Fruity notes of blackberry, eucalyptus, mint,
slight oak notes. Dry, nice amount of tannins. Great to drink now! Suggest Dark
Truffle or Dark Solid GEMS.” -
Godiva’s chef chocolatiers
With Godiva Dark Chocolate Raspberry 50% Cacao Tablet
These two are a natural, Trent observes.
“I think the wine combines the smell of
blackberries and the taste of the dark chocolate, and pairs best with the dark
chocolate with raspberry,” she says. “The wine makes the chocolate taste even
more like raspberry, whereas plain dark chocolate would be too bland with
this.”
Grand Reserve, Sonoma
County, 2006 Cabernet
Sauvignon
“Green pepper profile, some oak, higher content of
tannins, hints of blackberry, and a slight background of dark chocolate.” - Godiva’s
chef chocolatiers
With Godiva Gems Dark Chocolate Solids
Trent again points out
that the dark chocolate solids bring out the sweetness of the fruit in the
Cabernet Sauvignon. In turn, “the Cab makes the chocolate taste richer,” she
says. “It really brings out the fruit in the wine. It gives the chocolate a
richness that it wouldn’t have on its own.”